Queensland fruit Fly in Apricots

Unfortunately all the fruit on our apricot tree is affected by fruit fly. It is impossible to see until the fruit is cut open to reveal the small white larvae. Even firm, semi-ripe fruit contained larvae. Pat, Jo and I sprang into action to remove all the fruit both on and under the tree. The fruit were sealed inside black plastic bags, tied securely and have been left in the sun for at least a week to be cooked by the sun. Alternatively we could have cooked all the fruit in a microwave oven or frozen it. Dispose of the sealed plastic bag in the garbage bin, not the compost bin.

Reporting Fruit Fly Outbreaks:  I rang the relevant Government Department but was advised by a very nice person  that the only area of Victoria currently fruit fly free is around Mildura. South Australia is the only fruit-fly free state on the Australian mainland. Reporting fruit fly outbreaks elsewhere has been suspended. She directed me to http://agriculture.vic.gov.au/agriculture/pests-diseases-and-weeds/pest-insects-and-mites/queensland-fruit-fly/fruit-fly-action-plan. It was worth looking up; very clear, comprehensive information.

Fruit fly Prevention: We will not be using chemical prevention methods in our Permaculture fruit forest. We have removed all the fruit, cleaned up under the tree, disposed of the affected fruit and Jo pruned the tree today. If we can get a grant to buy nets at $60 each, we will net all our fruit trees next year. We are monitoring the apple and nectarine trees at the moment. Fruit fly do not attack olive trees. They attack almost all other fruit including tomatoes.

Stewed apricots salvaged from damaged fruit

Salvaging some Apricots: I took home about 1.5 k of under-ripe apricots and after cutting out the affected parts of the fruit I was able to save about 750 gm of good apricot flesh which I stewed with 2 T of sugar and half a cup of water. The result was very pleasing- sweet, more flavoursome than the unripe fruit and a good colour. After I prepared the fruit I disposed of the fruit fly affected waste  in my Bokashi compost system. This is not the recommended method of disposal but I feel it is safe because it is a sealed system which works by fermentation; I doubt if a larvae could survive the process.

Harvesting Apricots

 Apricots are nearly ready to be harvested in the Farnham Street food forest at the start of January. The fruit needs to be slightly giving to the touch and a true apricot-colour before it is perfect to pick. Unfortunately that is how birds and flying foxes (Pteropus poliocephalus) like their apricots too. Already birds are beginning to peck at the unripe fruit. Our tree is part of a complex mosaic of fruit trees and under-story plants so it would not be possible to net. The only solution is to pick apricots semi-ripe or remain constantly vigilant to beat the early bird to the choicest fruit. The fruit on the north side of the tree ripens ahead of the fruit on the shady south side.

Early January: fruit almost ripe.

October: green developing fruit

Unripe apricots harvested with just a blush of colour are best sliced and stewed or microwaved for just a minute and added to muesli or ice cream. Apricots are difficult to store out of the fridge; even a slight blemish or bird peck on the skin will quickly turn into a rotten brown spot. In a fruit fly prone area all fruit needs to be picked and stewed before they are fully ripened unless preventative measures such as fruit fly exclusion net has been erected over the tree. Areas experiencing spring frosts can only grow mid and late season apricot varieties like Trevatt and Morepark but if spring frosts do not occur in your area choose apricot varieties that fruit early such as Glengarry, Caselin and Divinity in order to harvest apricots in spring and early summer before fruit fly become active. In Melbourne you can be pretty certain there will be no spring frosts.

Cold winters are required for maximum fruit set but lack of fruit may be because the tree is young or pruning was too severe. If too much of the previous season's growth is pruned, there will be little fruit the following year. Leave some one-year old and and some two-year old shoots. Pruning is best done in summer after fruiting to avoid Gumosis disease. It is important to keep the water up after harvest to encourage formation of next year's flower buds. Feed the tree with compost or worm castings but not high nitrogenous fertilisers. Be very careful not to dig around an apricot tree or you will have suckers coming up from damaged surface roots.

2016 Overwintered Crops Harvested in Spring

The spring crops of dill, coriander, lettuce, sorrel and cabbages are coming to an end. I planted tomato seeds indoors last September but planted out the seedlings surrounded by basil only two weeks ago; we have had a wet, cool spring this year.
I am disappointed to discover that the garlic which takes six months to mature is being harvested from my plot by an unknown garlic thief  before the corms are fully mature. I am so discouraged that I may not bother to plant garlic next year.

Spring 2016 Leafy Beauty

Was it by accident or design? A bit of both I suppose in that I chose vegetables with interesting colors but the textures and shapes just happened to create a beautiful picture. The fine foliage of coriander and onions weave in and out of the large shapes;Golden Acres cabbage & Red Sorrel at center stage. Lettuces and endive complete the picture. Photographed on September 16th. The picture will be eaten over the next month or two.

Trip to Ceres

Pip and Ngeste at Ceres

Ceres is an environmental park with an excellent nursery. Our group combined with Norfolk Terrace to select our new seedlings for autumn planting and have a cup of coffee together in the cafe instead of our usual gardening session last Friday. This photo of Pip and Ngeste reminds me that I should do something about dressing less drably- these two certainly brightened up the morning with their cheerful colors. 

Crop rotation

Carrots and garlic growing companionably

As space becomes available in the plot I plan to practice crop rotation as best I can in such a small garden. This is what I plan to do over the next month:

Take the climbing beans out and plant winter spinach, silver beet, beetroot, dill, lettuce and chard in their place.

Take out the chili and marigold plants. The tomatoes are already compost. Dig in the marigolds. Lime the soil.

Replace with garlic, carrots,  spring onions and lettuce.

Take out the cosmos. Plant peas on the wire frame,        surrounded by coriander, lettuce, small brassicas & carrots. Peas are likely to be pilfered. Over late summer I enjoyed picking beans so much I would like to give peas a try and hope for the best.

Au revoir Anita

In France haricot vert is harvested this small?

Anita with Rond de Nice zucchini

Anita's relocation to be closer to her family means she has had to leave the Farnham St. Neighborhood Garden... she will be greatly missed. These photos are of her last summer harvest, showing Anita's preference to grow vegetable varieties from her native France. Anita harvests vegetables when they are tiny- for immediate eating.

If left unharvested, zucchinis like the Ronde de Nice, above right, grow massive and change colour. This one will be kept for seed. The tomatoes in the last picture are Jaune Flamme, an heirloom French variety... au revoir Anita, jardiniere et amie. 

Anita's empty plot awaits a new owner